Creating a container garden for the home is one of the most growing hobbies today, no pun intended. A lot of people are realizing the importance of going green, particularly of incorporating more greens into one’s diet, in order to enjoy a healthier lifestyle. Some have the notion that only those with a large lot can build a garden. This is a common misconception. The truth is, you don’t have to move into a sprawling mansion to have the benefits that gardening offers. This is where a container vegetable garden enters the picture.

A container vegetable garden is the solution for those who live in small houses with no yard to work with, or in apartments that don’t have the traditional space needed for gardening. Because of its practicality, a container vegetable garden has risen in popularity over the last few years. With a number of dwarf and bush varieties for different vegetables now ready to be grown, it’s safe to say that this type of garden will continue to be a favorite, particularly among city dwellers.

There are so many benefits that having a container vegetable garden offers. What are these, you ask? Read on and find out.

First of all, a container vegetable garden is a great idea for the elderly or the disabled who are not up for the challenge of going about to do heavy gardening. Growing potted vegetables, which does not require huge amounts of physical effort, is a welcome alternative.

A container vegetable garden is also ideal for those who are somewhat of a perfectionist when it comes to their plants. Potted vegetables allow mobility: if the cold or heat becomes too intense, you can easily move your pots to a place you deem more appropriate so that your plants get only the best care possible. Aside from this, you can also exercise more control over soil conditions. Using soil mix and fertilizer will help you give your potted plants an environment rich in nutrients.

A container vegetable garden is a smart way to maximize space. Even those with large homes end up wasting their patio, deck, or terrace. Whatever the size of your house is, planting vegetables in pots can make it more cozy and inviting. You can even utilize old closets and abandoned rooms; plenty of plants like beet, chive, carrot, and parsley can grow with the help of artificial lights.

Indeed, a container vegetable garden can be the solution to a number of problems that many gardening enthusiasts commonly face. Visit your local gardening store, or check out websites, and get started on this fulfilling hobby now.

container gardening is simply gardening that uses pots and containers to contain the plants in lieu of any ground with soil. This is ideal for city folks who live in an apartment or just about anybody and who do not have ample space where they live in for them to plant flowers and try their gardening prowess.

It’s great for people who want to exercise their “green thumb” and just over-all good for any living spaces, as plants give off fresh oxygen by absorbing ambient carbon dioxide, keeping your crib fresh and cool. A container garden is a great way to go eco-friendly, and might also be a cool way for you to grow your own food.

The first thing you should do when you plan to make your own container garden often starts with the most basic element: the soil you will be putting your plants in; not just any soil can do, as the pots and containers your plants will be planted onto will be a self-contained environment; picking up and packing any soil from the yard can expose your plant to diseases and pests that could be hard to control in the long run, so it’s best to get some high-grade soil, preferably one that has fertilizers mixed into it for your plants.

Another thing to consider for your container garden is the kind of pots that you want to put plant your flowers and plants into; it has to be a good two or three sizes bigger than the current pot that holds your young plants, to allow them ample space to root and grow.

Also worth noting is the material your pots are made from. Clay, terra cotta, plastic, wood, metal, recycled containers—they’re all good so long as they have provisions at the bottom for drainage. If not, you can always punch a hole at the bottom of the pot. Some metal containers might contain chemicals that might be harmful to your plants, such as rust-treated galvanized metal, so it pays to watch out for those.

For the more aesthetically inclined, it’s worth taking in a set of pots or containers that visually match with each other, either by color, size or the material it’s made from. A collection of plants in your container garden all uses clay pots will look as good as any number of pots from made of different materials but have the same shade of color.

Finally there’re the plants you will be planting in your container garden. Practically any plant can grow in your container garden, so long as they have adequate sunlight, are watered regularly and fertilized often, as being in a confined space will often use up the minerals and nutrients fast—that goes double for plants that make edible produce, such as tomatoes peppers, etc. Exotic plants or those that aren’t native to your climate and region may have difficulty growing, though.

Matching your plants visually, either by color, size or plant type will also help give a cohesive feel to your container garden, and will liven up the atmosphere of any living space, not matter how small.

The most natural kinds of pots are the terracotta plants pots. They’re made of fired clay and terracotta would let the soil around your plant breathe and keep your plant roots from just sitting in water for a long time. If terracotta pots are kept inside they’ll need a tray to drain into so as to protect your floors.

You may also choose ceramic pots for indoors or out. Ceramic pots come in several styles and colors. They could be found with or without drainage holes. Choosing the ones that offer drainage is a plus because they would hold water and cause the pot to be really heavy if there’s no drain area.

Metal plant pots make great indoor plant showpieces. You could pick them in many metallic styles to add pizzazz to any room or area that requires some color. You may want to watch your metal pots for leaks though and if your plant requires drainage then you would have to drill those in your metal containers because they rarely come with drainage.

Fiberglass pots are a great choice and today’s fiberglass containers are molded in each and every size or shape you can imagine. The terracotta look, fiberglass planters look amazing anywhere and one of the most popular styles are the window planter’s individuals place outside of their homes. They make perfect inside window planters full of herbs. These fiberglass plant pots are much lighter when filled with soil and plants so they are easier to move from one place to another.

Selecting the right flower pots is fun and you could take the whole look, whether outside or in, into consideration. Flower pots can match the style or color of your home to bring a pleasing look to the outdoors. You can choose small flower pots for single flowers or ferns.

Larger flower pots such as tubs would allow a lot of room for trees or climbing plants. The larger plant pots could be chosen to make a statement in a room or to make a great focal point outdoors. You would want to choose lightweight, large pots if you would be moving them often. These are some fundamentals you must remember when choosing a garden pot for your requirements.

Plant Containers can be created from things you would otherwise throw away and this activity therefore has the double appeal of creating an attractive flower display while at the same time going green!

I have found that planting in old ice buckets or flour or sugar containers or pots and pans or even old boots or children’s toys like wagons and doll cribs, produces an amazing effect. I love to put these out on the front of the house and see the number of adults and children that smile and comment to their friends as they pass. The fun is in the looking.

Sometimes the plant may be a little top heavy and unstable depending on the plant variety, but most of the time there is no problem. In fact when I first started I was disappointed to find that midway through the flowering season the plants lost their vigor. I gardening friend soon pointed out to me that I was not fertilizing. Plants in containers won’t thrive if you don’t fertilize. If you find this job too time-consuming, there’s an easy way to do it: just mix slow-release fertilizer pellets into the top layer of potting soil.

You can also create wonderful multi-layered flow display by putting additional planting in hanging containers or by raising the containers to allow drainage on forms and tables. Just make sure that you have devised a watering access strategy for the higher hanging baskets though or you will strain your arms stretching up to water, and quite possibly make yourself wet while doing it to the bargain!

If you don’t have containers that you can recycle, any type of clay planter pots that have drainage holes in the bottom and “saucers” to keep the soil from washing away, will work just fine; pick a size that fits the area you intend to grow your display blooms and how many containers you have. My local garden centre sells a 2O Inch Oval Planter is 6 1/2 inches tall from the bottom of the saucer and about 9 1/2 inches at the broadest point. It holds four or five annuals or small herbs or two large ones, and takes 2 gallons of soil. I have obtained outstanding results from plants growing in this manner.

Another tip is to make an arrangement of plants in your basket at the garden centre before you buy. You may see the other shoppers looking rather strangely at you, but why not? You’ll easily find out whether the combination of colors/leaf textures, and growth habits, plus blooms will work together. Remember, if you cannot make up your mind on what pot would suit the plant, experiment, and don’t be afraid to try something original. You can always re-pot the following year into a more preferred style. I find that a wide-based and tall container can be placed as a contrast, with larger plants to be a focus rather than a background.

In situations where my house plants have obviously had the attention of some leaf munchers, I isolate them in a plastic bag with a no-pest strip overnight. That procedure usually works quite well for me.

If you experiment you will learn how to do intensive gardening in small areas. Moveable containers such as pots and tubs rally are so flexible that all the year round your display can look neat and trim.

In dim areas, or near entryways, try using warm colors (reds and oranges). They grab attention and can be seen from farther away. When planting in exposed or public areas, heavy concrete tubs have the added advantage of discouraging anyone from “accidentally” walking off with your prized plants or pots. Concrete planters can be left outside over the winter in frost prone areas without harm, which is good since you’re probably not going to want to move them. Take care with clay though as one sharp and intense frost can cause many of the unglazed types to fall apart within 3 months.

Wood containers are also suitable. I do not recommend wine or whiskey barrels as they are too shallow and fall apart with the first transplant. Traditional cottage style wooden planters are some of my favorites. Some garden centers sell faux lead containers, and reformed granite planters, some of which offer simple antique rustic looks, and others have period style sophistication.

Planting flowers in containers adds immediate color and liveliness to your yard. They are great for adding color to a spot in a garden that ‘needs something,’ and they can be moved around for when you are entertaining in a certain area.

Very small containers will dry out quickly, and they offer limited growing room, so that teacup is probably not a wise choice. Very slow growing plants, such as sedums or cactus, will grow well in a restricted environment. However, keep water needs in mind. Some succulents do need a fair amount of moisture.

Be certain that any container you choose has good drainage. With the exception of pond plants, decorative plants do not like to have their feet constantly wet. If you are concerned that your potting mix will be drained out along with excess water, cover the holes with a single layer of newspaper or a coffee filter before adding your planting soil.

Clay or Terra Cotta Planters

Available in just about any size and shape, clay plant containers are traditional garden standbys. Their look is especially attractive in warm and sunny southern or Mediterranean garden designs.

Unglazed clay pots are porous, which means that water in the soil will evaporate through the sides of the container. They will have to be watered more frequently than less porous containers. Painted or glazed clay pots will retain more moisture through a hot day.

These pots are heavy for their size. If you are planting a large pot, moving it will be difficult. If you anticipate having to move a large terra cotta pot, place it on a decorative wheeled dolly before filling it with your planting mixture. This way you will be able to move it even when the soil within is moist and heavy.

If you line these containers with plastic before planting you can reduce water loss through the sides. The easiest thing to use is a plastic bag large enough to touch the sides of the pot all around. Remember to punch drainage holes in the bottom. When you add your planting mix, hide the sides of the bag by pushing them down into the mix before you plant.

Because all clay pots are porous, they do not do well outside during cold winters. Moisture in the pot will expand if it freezes, often cracking the pot. Cement and other stone containers will also often crack in freezing temperatures for the same reason. Consider whether you will be able to bring your pots into warmer shelter during the winter. If this will not be possible, and you want to keep your plantings, choose another kind of container.

Wooden Plant Containers

Whiskey barrels and other wooden patio containers are popular. Because wood will eventually deteriorate when exposed to water and sunlight, lining wooden plant containers with heavy plastic will extend their life and reduce water stains on the outside.

Cedar, redwood and teak are naturally resistant to water decay. Containers made of treated wood or lumber will usually last quite a bit longer than untreated wood. However, some chemicals used to treat wood are not suitable for edible plants, and may pose a health risk. Always check the materials used to treat any wooden planter for safety.

Metal Pots, Tubs and Wagons

So long as there is drainage at the bottom you can use any metal container to hold garden plants. Be aware that any large metal container will be heavy, so place it where you want it to remain unless it has wheels.

Plastic and Resin Containers

Plastic plant containers are the most lightweight and often the most inexpensive containers for the garden. Of course, this is why your plant nursery uses plain plastic pots.

You can find resin containers that mimic the look of cement or glazed pottery. These pots are handy if you don’t want to worry about freezing and cracking or excess weight. Most are quite handsome, as well.

Plastic and resin pots are not porous, so they will not lose moisture as quickly as unglazed pottery. Because they don’t lose moisture, it is especially important to be sure that they have sufficient drainage at the bottom so that plant roots do not become waterlogged. Many resin containers have holes that must be opened by the end user. Be sure that you do this before you begin planting.

Thin plastic pots will have a short lifespan, as they will eventually crack in the sun. However, because they are inexpensive, they will be less costly to replace every few years.

Color Makes a Difference

Dark plant containers will absorb summer heat. If the roots of your plants get too hot they will be damaged or even killed. In hot climates choose lighter colored containers to reduce heat buildup.

Avoid Outdoor Pot Saucers

Many planting containers come with saucers to hold water outflow. Avoid saucers under your outdoor plants as these are great places for mosquitoes to lay their eggs. Your plants may wick up a little extra water between waterings, although this is not always the case. However, your yard and patio will be overrun with mosquitoes.

Whatever container you choose as a planter, the three main things to remember are: 1) choose the correct size for your plants. A too-small container will not have growing room, and a too-large container will overwhelm and dwarf your plants; 2) make sure your container drains well; 3) monitor soil moisture regularly and maintain the kind of moisture that your plants require. Don’t plant a cactus and a rose in the same container – their water needs are vastly different.

One of the challenges of container gardening is the fact that a pot is an unnatural place for flowers and vegetables to grow. Soil dries out faster and roots can become cramped. Also, the containers themselves are prone to drainage and decay problems. In addition, they need to be tended more often because they are so visible on your patio or deck. Plants that are not maintained properly can get pretty ugly.

On the plus side, many containers can be moved easily, allowing you to protect plants in poor weather and to move them into sun or shade as necessary. Also, because they are well contained, managing the container plants is not an overwhelming task, nor does it require a great deal of time. If a plant should die, it’s a simple matter to replace it.

Here are a few things to think about when caring for your container garden:

Watering

Watering is one of the most important aspects of plant care. Without water, plants will not live produce flowers, vegetables or herbs. In an outside garden, plants can extend their roots to find the moisture they need when the soil next to them runs dry. This is not possible, however, in containers.

For this reason, any plant in a pot requires more regular watering than one planted in an outside garden the general rule for almost all plant varieties, whether inside or outside, is to keep the soil moist but not soggy during the growing season. If your plant has wilted leaves or flowers, it is probably stressed from lack of water. A container with a dry plant will weigh less than anyone that is properly watered.

Fertilizing

When a container plant runs out of food, it has nowhere to go to replenish it. Even if you buy potting mixes that contain nutrients, the plant will use them up within a month or so. Some of it is taken up by the roots and some is lost through drainage.

The solution is to mix in some fertilizer twice a month with your watering, or to periodically add compost as a top dressing. The nutrient most necessary to plants is nitrogen. it helps the development of leaves and its growth. Nitrogen deficiency shows itself by turning the leaves a pale shade of green or yellow. Too much nitrogen can delay a plant’s bloom or crop.

The other nutrients that plants need are potassium, for hardiness and color, and phosphorus, for root formation. Nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus are available in complete fertilizer form or as separate ingredients that you can mix yourself.

When you apply fertilizer, make sure that the soil is moist by watering beforehand. This will help to prevent chemical burns.

Pruning

Most plants will require some pruning, especially those grown in containers. Some people may be afraid to prune their plants for fear of killing them. However, if a mistake is made in pruning, it will not usually kill the plant.

Pruning includes the removal of dead or dying stems or branches so that the strongest can survive. Sometimes, trimming also means clipping flowers, normally only toward the end of their bloom. This is called deadheading.

Controlling Pests

Pests are just as apt to visit container gardens as an outside garden. It is fortunate that pests are easier to control on plants that are planted in pots.

The key to pest control starts with the plans that you select and the soil that you use. Some plants have a natural resistance to pests.

Do not use soil that has been used before unless it has been sterilized. Better yet, purchase new soil for new plantings.

Inspect plants periodically to check for bugs and larvae. Sometimes all you need to do is pick them off your plant leaves. Other times, they will require chemical or natural insecticides.

Diseases

Usually by the time you know that a plant is diseased, too much damage has been done to it to save it. These plants should be quarantined or removed. Signs of disease include rust colored leaves or spots on the plants.

Container gardens are less likely to become diseased than those plants that are planted in a regular garden. And, if they should become diseased, it is easier to isolate them from the rest of the garden.

Caring for your container garden is not a difficult task if you use common sense. The main thing to remember is that container gardens will dry out much faster than a regular garden. That is the most common reason that plants do not grow or produce as expected.

These really do give you a spectacular show. Even if you have a large garden you can extend your container gardening onto patios, or around sheds and garages with pots and tubs filled with lush flowering plants. You can group your pots together to give a stunning effect or in a smaller area just use a single container with one specimen plant that will draw anyone’s eye. Containers are so versatile, you can move them around for the best effect or change them to create different moods. As flowers fade just change the plants to ones that are flowering or about to flower, its so easy to have a continuous flowering display throughout the growing seasons. With containers you have so many different choices. You can have containers that compliment the colour of the flowers.

Or you could have them contrasting each other. Either option can give you a special unique display. Its nearly always best to have containers that are similar in colour to each other as it gives the best effect. Use the plants to compliment or contrast with each other. For the best aesthetics its best if there is a tall plant in each container with shorter plants around the edges and perhaps trailing plants hanging over the sides, almost hiding the container. You will have to think about leaf shapes as well. Long broad leaves can act as a back drop to smaller plants with shorter leaves and bright flowers. With containers its so easy to change plants around until you get the effect you want.

Dark green leaves will give a better background effect than light green ones. Especially for bright coloured flowers, which will stand out sharply against the dark green leaves. This doesn’t mean to say you cant use light green leaves, if the container is against a dark colour, a dark painted fence or shed for instance, the flowers will stand out against this rather than the leaves. This will give the same effect as using dark green leaves except the light green leaves do not stand out al all. Its always best to try and use plants that flower for long periods, or have plants of a different type ready to replace them as they finish blooming. Or you could grow a container with just one type of plant. A patio tub full of yellow flowering crocus takes a lot of beating in spring.

The choice of grouped plants is absolutely endless, especially in early spring before your beds and borders start to flower. You can use almost anything as a garden container, an old china tea pot or coffee pot or a disused bucket, as long as it will hold compost and is big enough for the type of plants you want to grow in it then it can be used. You could even make your own if you are handy with tools and timber, its real easy to make your own wooden containers. You can of course use commercially available containers which are made from all sorts of different materials. The most common being plastic and terracotta. Terracotta pots are available in all sorts of sizes, shapes, colours and shades. The best ones are glazed on the outside, this helps retain water and gives the pot a somewhat more expensive look.

The cheaper plastic pots and tubs are ideal. They are less likely to be broken than terracotta and they are available in a vast range of sizes and styles and colours. Today’s plastic materials are far superior to a few years ago and this is no different for plant containers. They are strong, lightweight but don’t look “plasticy” You can personalize plastic pots by decorating them on the outside with paint or stickers. If your are an arty type this gives you great scope of producing your own brand of container, your own personal touch. You can buy saucers to stand your container on which helps retain water, especially in dry weather. They will also prevent unsightly water marks on concrete or wood.

Never ever use garden soil in garden containers. It contains weed seeds and many diseases which would soon multiply in the confines of a container with disastrous effects for your plants. Use a proper potting compost which is especially produced for growing plants in containers. Your plants will thank you for it. A really good place for containers is a porch or veranda where they will make your home more attractive, inviting and welcoming. Stand pots and tubs on your porch or veranda, fit troughs or window boxes to hand rail guards and fit hanging baskets under the roof. This really does change the appearance of your property for the better. It brings it alive and if done well the containers will enhance your home and make all your neighbours envious. You could have containers along each side of your driveway.

This can look really stunning if your driveway is not just a straight line and curves. Just make sure your selection of plants harmonize with each other and enhances the rest of your garden and house décor. For a fabulous night time displays use discrete lighting to highlight the container plants following the outline of your drive. And don’t forget all the different types of containers you can have for your indoor plants which not only enhance the plants but, if chosen correctly, will compliment all your décor. There are so many uses for containers in your garden and around the home you could find different uses each and every day.

Just use your imagination and you will be amazed at the difference containers will make. And if you don’t get it right first time just move the containers around until they look right and pleasing to your eye. But don’t forget plants in containers will be completely dependant on you for water and nutrients. So keep them well watered, especially in dry spells, and give them a weekly shot of a proprietary plant feed.

If your home has an area with ample sunlight – a requirement for growing vegetables, you can grow them successfully. What are the locations that can be used for container gardening? You can use your patio, balcony, terrace, rooftop, deck, window sill, pathways, etc.

Be aware of the sunlight requirement for each kind of crop. For leafy vegetables, the required sunlight should be about four hours the whole day, for fruit vegetables, at least 7-8 hours sunlight is needed daily, and root vegetables requires around 6 hours of sunlight a day.

And besides of producing your own vegetables in a safer way, the attack of common pests and diseases can be greatly minimized. You can also improve the soil conditions by adding some soil amendments; like manure, compost, and other essential food nutrients needed by the plants.

Everything in your home that are considered as garbage can be utilized to the maximum by making them into compost. Even your household waste water can be used to irrigate your plants.

In other words, container gardening is considered to be the practice that makes use of useless things.

What Containers Are Ideal For Container Gardening?

Growing vegetables can be executed in any type of containers such as; cans, plastics, pails, split vehicle tires, cement bags, feed bags, bottle water plastics, gallon cans, cylinder blocks, milk container, bamboo cuts or any containers that have been thrown away. Even coco shells, banana bracts, leaves of coconut is ideal as potting materials especially for short season vegetables, like, pechay, lettuce, mustard, etc.

Good growing containers should possess the three important characteristics as suggested by Relf (1996);

1. They must be large enough to support fully grown plants.

2. They must have adequate drainage.

3. They must not have held products that are toxic to plants and persons.

Containers that drain poorly can affect the success of a container garden. It is therefore vital to have your containers above ground or any support that would raise the containers such as; slats, hollow blocks or anything to provide space below them to allow excess water to drain freely.

For bigger plants, you should use big containers and for small containers use small plants.

Small containers (1-2 gallons) are suited for lettuce, spinach, mustard, pepper, radish, green onions, carrots, beans, and dwarf tomatoes. Medium size containers (3-10 gallons) are best for eggplants while for larger ones (bigger than 10 gallons) are good for cabbage, cucumbers and tomatoes.

For most plants, containers should be at least 15 cm deep minimum especially for shot season vegetables.

Recommended Container Size and Type/Crop

5 gal. window box – Bush beans, Lima beans
1 plant/5gal.pot, 3plants/15 gal. pot -Cabbage, Chinese cabbage
5 gal. window box at least 30 cm deep – carrot
1 plant/gal. pot – cucumber
5 gal. pot – Eggplant, tomato, okra
5 gal. window pot – Lettuce
1 plant/2gal. pot; 5 plants/15 gal. pot – Onion
5 gal. window box – Pepper, spinach

Soil Media Composition

Plants grown in containers will depend on the kind of soil mixture to provide a maximum growth development. It is a must that you should provide the best soil media composition to give the possible return of your toil. Failure to give the plants with the necessary food nutrients in their growing period would results to poor growth, lanky, and stunted plants that will results to your failure.

The ideal soil mixture for container-grown vegetables crops are as follows:

1. It should be light in weight and porous.

2. It should easily drain excess water.

3. It should have high water holding capacity.

4. It should be free from soil borne disease, nematodes and insect pests.

5. It should supply the right and balance amount of nutrients for the plants.

The best mixture of soil media should compose the following; synthetic mix of horticultural-grade vermiculite, peat moss, limestone, superphosphate and complete fertilizer.

Compost can also serve as an excellent growing medium.

In your country where the above media are not available, you can make your own potting media by mixing 1 part loam soil or compost manure, 1 part fine river sand, and coconut coir dust.

If your country is producing rice you can replace coconut coir dust with the rice hull charcoal (carbonized). But this should be thoroughly sterilized to kill some deadly microbes that are detrimental to the plants.

Sawdust is another medium that could be used in preparing your growing medium in the absence of coco coir dust and should also be sterilized.

Sowing Seed and Transplanting

Before going into the sowing procedure, give your utmost attention to the selection of seed you’ll use as planting materials. Good quality seeds should be your first concern.

Good quality seeds possesses the following characteristics:

1. damage free
2. free from other mixture with other varieties
3. free from seed borne diseases
4. and with good vigor and germinating capacity.

To get a quality and reliable seeds, you should buy from certified seed producers or seed suppliers.

All vegetables that undergoes transplanting are excellent for container gardening. Transplants can be purchased from local nurseries or other successful gardeners in your locality.

Before transplanting, fill plastic or germinating tray with the growing media preparation using the following ratio: 60% rice hull charcoal(carbonized), 30 % coconut coir dust, 10% chicken manure (60-30-10 ratio).

In the absence of the above materials in your country, you can use the old soil media preparation – 1 part sand, 1 part compost, and 1 part garden soil (1-1-1 ratio). Make sure to sterilize them before the seed are sown. This is to kill some microorganisms that may cause damage to the seedlings.

You can also purchase a prepared growell medium sold in local agriculture stores in your respective country. Inquire from your agriculture experts available in your area.

Once the growing media is ready, fill the holes of the germinating or potting containers. Press the soil medium lightly with your fingers in every hole filled with the medium. Then follows the sowing of seeds.

In sowing seeds some techniques should be followed to insure germination:

Watermelon (Seeded) (Citrulis lunatus). Soak seed 30 min.- 1hour in top water. Incubate by using moist cotton cloth. Spread the seeds and cover. Place in an improvised cartoon for 24-36 hours. After this period, sow the seeds at I seed per hill. Seed must be level in the soil guided by a finger or stick at 1 cm deep. For the seedless type the procedure is the same as the seeded but the tip near the embryo should be cut with the use of a nail cutter before inserting to the soil. Cutting the end portion of the seed hastens germination.

Bitter Gourd/Ampalaya (Momordica charantia). Soak seeds for 30 min.-1 hour. Cut the tip near the embryo and sow with the seed deep of ¾ of the soil at 1 seed per hole.

Upo ( Lagenaria siceraria ) and Patola ( Luffa cylindrica ). Cut the tip covering only near the embryo and sow seed at 1 seed per hole.

Squash (Cucurbita spp). Soak seeds 30 min.-1 hour. Then pinch the tip near the embryo and sow seed at 1 seed per hole.

Pepper (Capsicum annum L.), Eggplant (Solanum melongena), and Tomato (Lycopersicum esculentum). Sow the seed directly to the germinating tray at 1-2 seeds per hole.

Pechai /Pechay (Brassica pechai), Lettuce (Lactuca sativa), Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis ), and Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. Italica ). Sow seed directly to the germinating at 1-2 seeds per hole.

Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), Honey Dew / Muskmelon (Cucumis melo). Sow the seed directly to the germinating tray at 1 seed per hole.

Carrot (Daucus carota) and Raddish (Rafanus sativus). Directly sow the seed to the field at 2-3 seeds per hill.

Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis ) and Beans (Phaseolus limensis ). Sow the seed directly to the field at 1 seed per hill.

Corn (zea mays). Sow the seed directly to the field at 1 seed per hill.

Papaya (Carica papaya). Soak the seeds for 30 min.-1 hour then sow to the germinating tray at 1 seed per hole.

Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus ). Directly sow the seed in the field at 1-2 seeds per hill.

Container size for specific crops.

o Medium – Beans, lettuce, carrots, cabbage, broccoli

o Large – Cuccumber, eggplant, tomato, pepper, okra, squash, papaya

o Small – Onions, parsley, radish

Light Requirements

o Sun – Beans, cucumber, eggplant, tomato, pepper, carrots, okra, squash, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, broccoli papaya

o Partial shade – Lettuce, onions, parsley, radish

Fertilizer Requirements

To get the right amount of fertilizer for your vegetables, you should analyze your soil media mixture. And if you can do it, organic or inorganic fertilizer should be used.

Fertilizer combination of organic and inorganic would be much better with the correct proportion depending on the plant requirement.

When using inorganic fertilizer you should prepare a base nutrient solution by dissolving 2 cups of complete fertilizer in 1 gallon of warm water.

A growing solution is prepared by diluting 2 tablespoons of the base solution in 1 gallon of water.

Application starts by pouring 2-3 tablespoons of the growing solution on the soil media around the plants at the time of transplanting.

The frequency of application may vary from one crop to another, but one application per day is adequate. It is advisable to leach all unused fertilizer out of the soil mix once a week by watering tap water to cause free drainage through the holes in the bottom of the container.

This practice will prevent buildup of injurious materials in the soil media. If you want to use organic fertilizer, you should use pure or 2/3 compost in the growing media.

If both the organic and inorganic fertilizer will be used, at least one part of the growing media should be compost and one tablespoon of the growing solution applied at least once a day.

If you’ll use synthetic mix growing medium, which is already enriched with superphosphate and complete fertilizer subsequent fertilization may not be necessary for early maturing crops.

For late maturing crops, daily application of the growing solution is necessary until maturity or shortly before harvesting.

Water Management

Water is the life for container garden plant. It’s important that you should not neglect this requirement. Proper water management is vital for a successful container gardening.

Basically, one watering a day is enough for container-grown crops. But for vegetables grown in small containers may require 2 times of watering a day.

Plants grown in clay pots needs more frequent watering since pots are more porous and extra water is allowed to drain out from their sides.

If the growing medium appears to be excessively dry and as the plant shows signs of wilting, the containers should be grouped together so that the foliage creates a canopy to help shade the soil and keep it cool.

Poor drainage of the growing media or container can lead to water-logged condition that may results to plant death due to lack of oxygen.

To make sure you have a vigorous plants, always check the containers at least once a day and twice on hot, dry, or windy days and to feel the soil to determine whether it is dump.

To reduce water evaporation for container plants, you should apply mulching materials such as plastic mulch or putting windbreaks.

You can also install trickle or drip irrigation system to the plants base if you think you can’s attend to your plants daily.

Pests and Diseases Control

Control of pests and diseases in containers needs your careful assessment because wrong use of pesticides may cause damage to the environment, especially children who may often come closer to your container plants.

To be safe, you should implement the Integrated Pest Management (IPM). This approach is focused on the so called systematic pest management which means to prevent problems before the pests and diseases appears.

How you can do this?

It is done by monitoring pest population, identifying pests, and choosing a combination of control methods to keep pests population at a minimal level. These methods includes cultural, mechanical, biological, and chemical methods.

Recommended Practices…

o Select insect and disease-resistant varieties of vegetables. Avoid insect attracting plants in the garden or those that are susceptible to pests. Beans, peas, cucumbers, spinach, lettuce and squash are more resistant to insect pests.

o Water the plants adequately to keep them healthy. Fertilize and thin plants to reduce competition for moisture and nutrients.

o Remove weeds to conserve soil moisture and eliminate hiding places of pests.

o Encourage natural enemies of insect pests, such as predators and parasites. Attract beneficial insects like; Western Damsel Bug, Lady Beetle, Green Lace Wing, and Minute Pirate Bug into your garden by planting small flowered plants such as; daisies, cosmos, marigold, and clover. Be sure they are in flower bloom throughout the growing season.

o Avoid growing the same types of vegetables in the same spot year after year. A 4-year rotation cycle is recommended.

o Exclude pests from plants by using fiber materials, row cover, and other barriers such as plastic bottles and plant collars.

o Remove infested part of the plant right away. Remove all plant residues from the containers after harvesting all the crops.

o Use traps to disrupt mating cycles of insects. Yellow sticky boards catch winged aphids, whiteflies, and leafhoppers.

o Handpick pests or knock them off plants with a stream of water from a garden hose. Kill the insects by putting them a soapy water.

o If all other control methods fails, the least toxic insecticides includes botanical control such as neem and pyrethrin. Insecticidal soap, horticultural oil may also be used for insect control. Always identify the pests before choosing a pesticide and use according to label directions.

Harvesting

Harvesting varies with vegetables. Leafy vegetables may be harvested when the desired leaf size is required for every use they are intended. Others harvest leafy vegetables after the required age is meet. For fruit vegetables such as, Luffa, Cucumber, Eggplant, beans, Okra, and Upo they are harvested when their size are big but tender. For squash varieties, they are harvested either matured or big but tender depending on the preference of users.

Cabbage, cauliflowers, and broccoli should be harvested when their heads are already compact. Peppers and tomatoes may be harvested when their fruits have started to ripen.

If you’re growing container-grown vegetables just for home consumption, you can harvest only some part of the plant and retain the rest for future use. But if you think you have more than enough for family use, you can harvest them all and sell or give them to your neighbors.

Never allow your vegetables to bear flower before harvesting them except when your purpose is to collect the seeds for future planting.

Maturity Indices of some Vegetables

o White potato, onion, garlic – Tops begins to dry and topple down

o Cowpea, sitao, snap beans, batao, sweet pea, winged bean – Well-filled pods that really snap

o Okra – Full-sized fruits with the tips that can be snapped readily

o Lima beans, pigeon pea – Well-filled pods that are starting to lose their greenness

o Upo, luffa – Immature (if thumb nail can penetrate easily)

o Tomato – Seeds slip when fruit is cut, or green color turning pink

o Sweet pepper – Deep green color turning dull

o Musk melon – Color of lower part turns creamy yellow, produces dull hallow sound when thumped

o Cauliflower – Curd compact (over mature if flower clusters elongates and begin to loosen)

o Broccoli – Bud cluster compact (over mature if loose)

o Cabbage – Heads compact s (over mature if heads cracks)

o Sweet corn – Exudes milk sap when thumbnail penetrates kernel

o Eggplant, ampalaya – Desirable size is reached out but still tender

o Honey dew – White color cream with aroma

o Squash – Big enough with dried leaves

o Watermelon – Dull hollow sound when thumped and lower color part turns yellow

o Water spinach – Leaves at their broadest and longest

Problems Encountered in Container Gardening

In container gardening you’ll meet some problems that may hinder your daily operations. This is sometimes discernible when you’ll not attend the plants due to negligence.

However, you can prevent these problems if you’ll religiously observe your plants closely. Small pests and diseases can’t be seen visibly if you’ll not see the plant appearance closely. You’ll only see the affected plants once you come closer and actually touch them.

Some symptoms, causes, and corrective measures you should observe…

o Tall, spindly and not productive. The plants receives insufficient sunlight and excessive supply of Nitrogen. To correct them, you should transfer the containers to a place where there is sufficient sunlight.

o Yellowing from bottom, poor color, and lack vigor. The plants receives too much water and low fertility. To correct this, you have to reduce watering intervals and check the pots for good drainage.

o Plants wilt even with sufficient water. The plants has poor drainage and aeration. To correct, you should use a potting mix with high percentage of organic matter. Increase the number of holes of the container for good drainage.

o Burning or firing of the leaves. The soil medium is high in salt. To correct this problem, you have to leach the container with tap water at regular intervals.

o Stunted growth, sickly, and purplish color of leaves. The temperature is low and low phosphate. To correct, you should relocate the containers to a warmer area. Increase phosphate level in base solution.

o Holes in leaves and distorted in shape. The plants are pests infested. To correct, you should use non-chemical insecticides or other biological control for insects.

o Spots on the leaves, dead dried areas or powdery or rust occurrence. The plants are affected with a disease. To correct them, you should remove the disease affected parts or the whole plant in serious condition. You can use non-chemical pesticides if the disease is in the early stage of infestation.

Drill drainage holes in the bottom and place a couple of inches of stones, rubble, grit, broken clay pots etc before filling with good quality potting compost with a mix of grit and very well rotted garden compost. Pure potting compost on its own tends to dry out too quickly whereas the grit and compost add ‘body’ and assist with drainage.

Some people make the mistake of planting then attempt to add a trellis later as the plant grows. You might damage the plant roots doing this so install trellis when first planting. Tease out any compacted roots carefully before you bury the root-ball. Grapes throw out wide and deep roots so the larger container will encourage it to create a good root system over the first two years of its life.

Once the vine has begun to thrive ensure you add top dressing each spring to ‘pep’ up the compost. Carefully remove the top couple of inches of compost and replace with fresh supply and continue to to water and feed as required throughout growing season.

As it develops and grows you will have to choose the canes that will be trained along the trellis and which will in time bear the bunches of fruit. At this stage you need to master the art of pruning. Don’t worry though, it is not difficult to learn so study a good book or video series to get a handle on how it is done.

After years two and three your plant should ideally be splayed out on the trellis in a similar fashion to how a peacock displays it wonderful feathers. As further seasons pass by and a stronger root system develops the plant should be able to support larger crops of so more buds can be left on to become bunches and ultimately heavier crops to harvest.

Growing your very own grapes is not difficult and so rewarding it is well worth trying it. But educate yourself. It will pay dividends in the long run in better yield and fewer problems.

Placement of exotic plants and trees is critical for their overall development and long-term survival. It not only determines the general happiness of the plants, but also the overall appeal it gives to the habitat.

You should make the final choice of location only after having considered several other factors. If some part of your house or garden receives too much sunlight, you can grow sun; loving plants that will help to provide shade. It’s also important to ensure that the plants have the appropriate space for spreading themselves.

Competing plants shouldn’t be grown very near to each other. Dominating and invasive plants and trees should be placed afar from tender plants. You should also keep in mind the ultimate size the plant is likely to achieve. This will avoid obstruction of driveways or sidewalks, not just for you but at times even for your neighbors.

Growing Plants In Containers Can Be Rewarding

If you are eager to incorporate tropical foliage, trees, palms and flowers in your garden, however feel discouraged because of relatively small area, growing plants in containers is the perfect solution. By confining the exotic plants to a relatively small space, maintenance can be less of an unpleasant task. This also gives you the liberty to move them back and forth to different sites, as and when the plant requirement for sunlight and moisture changes. At the same time, you can introduce changes in the overall look of the garden by combining and contrasting with other garden plants.

Exotic plants can be in grown in containers with soil alone or with alterations, or completely soil less. Whatever be the preference, the medium must ensure good drainage and adequate water-retentive capacity. This is best accomplished by using a combination of materials (like sand, gravel along with loam) of various particle sizes to make available small air spaces and free-drainage.

The composition of the soil bed should in essence be rather simple and purposeful. You can either use peat moss or rich loam to constitute the bulk of your mix. Since, peat moss is highly acidic, always add ground limestone to maintain the pH level of soil.

To increase aeration and drainage, you can include pine bark or sand in the mix. Adding Vermiculite to soil will increase its water-retention capacity. For new plants, sparingly applied granular-type fertilizers can be beneficial as a starter feed. Soil-less plants are grown on liquid-feed and addition of fertilizers is advisable for supplying nutrients required by the plant.

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